Below are the PCB PART NUMBERS to replace and also a RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT for each.
(All replacements listed below have been specifically selected for their quality, SIZE and suitability)
PURCHASE EVERYTHING BELOW FROM ELEMENT 14 OR RS COMPONENTS
(DO NOT SUBSTITUE THESE – THEY ARE LISTED FOR A REASON – BEST PARTS TO USE FOR THE JOB)
D2, D4 - SF14 DIODE 200V ULTRA-FAST
REPLACEMENT USE “VISHAY UF4003 DIODE”
** THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A 1N4003 POWER DIODE SO DO NOT SUBSTITUTE
D11, D12, D13 - UF5402 DIODE 200V ULTRA-FAST (REV 3 PSU AND EARLIER ONLY – SEE BELOW)
REPLACEMENT USE “VISHAY UF5404 DIODE”
** THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A 1N5404 POWER DIODE SO DO NOT SUBSTITUTE
C7 - 33uf 50v
REPLACEMENT NICHICON PW SERIES P/N: UPW1H330MED1TD - 33uf 50v
C15, C17, C27, C30 - 330uf 25v
REPLACEMENT PANASONIC FR SERIES P/N: EEUFR1E331 - 330uf 25v
C36 - 680uf 10v
REPLACEMENT PANASONIC FR SERIES P/N: EEUFR1C681L - 680uf 16v
C26, C28, C29 - 1000uf 25v
REPLACEMENT PANASONIC FR SERIES P/N: EEUFR1E102L - 1000uf 25v
C23, C25 - 2200uf 10v
REPLACEMENT PANASONIC FR SERIES P/N: EEUFR1A222L - 2200uf 10v
C22, C24 - 3300uf 10v
REPLACEMENT PANASONIC FM SERIES P/N: EEUFM1A332 - 3300uf 10v
PLEASE NOTE – the 3 diodes D11, D12, D13 are only found in REV 3 or EARLIER PSU’s. If you have a
REV 4 PSU (DP-P2 1TB & 2TB), then EVERTHING STILL APPLIES except for the 3 DIODES mentioned.
Unsolder and remove the old components one at a time and then use solder braid to clean off any solder left on
the PCB solder pad. This will then leave you a nice clean, unblocked hole (2 of them for each component) for
which you can then drop in your new component and line it up before soldering it in permanently. Ensure that
each component is installed around the right way, as EVERY COMPONENT you are working with is
polarised so DO NOT INSTALL THEM AROUND THE WRONG WAY (more notes on this 2 paragraphs
down). Once you have soldered each into place, remove the excess wire/leg of the components using wire
cutters, they should be cut flush with the solder pad, as per all other joints on the PCB. Please note how the 3
diodes D11, D12, D13 are sitting about 1cm above the PCB, and ensure that you install the 3 replacements in
the same way.
Now assuming everything went well in replacing the 18 components, now what? Clean the flux off your board
with Turps or flux/PCB cleaner so that you can see the board clearly. Then get a nice white bright lamp or
torch and inspect your PCB. There will almost certainly be a LOT of dry joints on your PSU, especially
around the middle of the low voltage side, and in the high voltage area too. They should be easy to identify.
Spend the time and MAKE SURE you go over them properly, ensuring you don’t short any of the joints out
with other joints on the board. It can sometimes be really hard to resolder the joints properly as there is a
protective lacquer coating over the board which makes it pretty hard for the solder to stick. Scraping the
affected legs with a blade BEFORE soldering them helps to make the solder stick better if need be.
So let’s check where we are at now and make sure the workmanship is up to scratch… Double Check and
triple check that you have installed the 18 components around the correct way, as mentioned they are all
polarised and must be installed correctly. The – (or negative) of the capacitors is marked on the side of the
capacitor as well as on the PCB board. The Anode and Cathode of the diodes is also marked with a band/line
on the diode and on the PCB as well so MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS AROUND THE RIGHT WAY.
Double check the rest of your work (especially dry joints) as a safe guard before proceeding. Everything ok?
(125 Seiten)
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